Sometimes, no matter what, when you live in a flood zone, your house will flood in heavy rain. I have a friend who lives on a street called Water Row Lane, and last year their neighborhood had to collectively rent the Boston Duck Boats for 2 weeks to transport them from their homes to their cars in a nearby parking lot.
Water, might be good for flowers, plants, and trees, but it’s not so good for houses.
Live in a flood zone?
If you live in an area that has a high flood risk, elevate the furnace, water heater, electric panel, washer and dryer in your home at least 12 inches above the projected flood elevation.
You should have check valves installed in your home to prevent flood water from backing up your drains.
Have a sump pump installed, and if you have a sump pump, make sure it’s working and install a battery-operated backup, in case the power goes out.
Clean debris from your gutters and downspouts.
After a flood
Check outside for loose power lines, gas leaks, foundation cracks or other damage. Make sure your porch roofs and overhangs still have their supports. Check your home’s and your out building’s foundations for settling, cracking or undermining. If you see damage, get a building inspector or contractor to check the home before you go inside.
Turn off all electrical switches, even if the power is out.
While the electricity is off, hose down the house to remove any health hazards left by floodwater and mud.
If your furnace or water heater floods, have a technician check them before turning them on.
If your basement is flooded, pump the water out in stages.
Dry out appliances such as washers and dryers before using them. They might need several days to dry.
Mold
Mold can produce allergens, and, in some cases, potentially toxic substances that can make you sick, so you need to ensure your home is as mold-free as possible.
Water damage should be taken care of within 48 hours after the incident or mold growth (or worse, bacteria and viruses) will occur.
The best way to prevent mold is to remove wet contents from your home immediately.
Wet items should be cleaned with a pine-oil cleanser and bleach, completely dried, and monitored for several days for any fungal growth and odors.
Dry out damaged rooms by opening windows and using high-pressure fans. If your carpets are damaged, you should strongly consider installing new ones.
Keep the indoor humidity low, ideally from 30 percent to 50 percent. Make sure places of high humidity, such as bathrooms, are well-ventilated. Use a dehumidifier whenever necessary.
Even if you remove the mold, if the water problem (i.e. a leaky pipe or cracked foundation) is not fixed, the mold will come back.
Hiring a Contractor
Do the research. Ask friends and neighbors and read reviews. Make sure the contractor can do the type of work needed, foundation and basement crack repair . And check the contractor’s current references.
Check withe the Better Business Bureau, A1 Foundation Crack Repair has an A+ Rating.
Contractors can’t collect more than one-third of payment up-front unless the job requires materials that must be specially ordered. They also cannot demand any payment before the contract is signed.
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In a Flood Zone When Water Floods Your Home
Cracks in Concrete Block Foundations
Homes built in the late 1930’s to the 1970’s were often built with concrete block foundations. These days, builders mostly use poured concrete for foundations. However, concrete block still has a place as a viable material for foundations. When a foundation is small, such as a home addition or crawl space, builders can save money by using concrete blocks instead of subcontracting for poured concrete, this way foundations can be quickly and economically built.
Concrete block foundations can show their problems in a number of ways; horizontal cracks in the mortar joints, horizontal shearing on the bottom of the walls, stair-step cracks in outside corners, tipping at the top of the wall, or even bulging.
Depending on the direction of the crack, you may be able to discern the problem.
Horizontal Cracks in Block Foundations
Horizontal cracks in concrete block or brick foundations mean that your foundation is being subjected to lateral pressure. This means that the ground around your house expands when it’s wet, and then contract when it dries. This type of foundation damage is usually fairly serious.
Vertical Crack In Block Foundations
If your foundation has vertical cracks, this can mean that your foundation is having "settling" problems. This is usually caused by unstable soil conditions, which may cause your foundation to rise or fall in certain areas. In most cases, damage to a foundation caused by settlement can also be visible in other areas of your home, such as in door and window frames.
Vertical Cracks In Poured Foundation
If your foundation has recently been poured, it's possible that the type of damage will be visible as small, vertical cracks that run at a slight angle. This type of damage is caused by the shrinkage that occurs in drying concrete during the curing process. Most of the time, this type of damage is fairly inexpensive to fix.
Front Stoops Can Result In Foundation Leaks
A front stoop set of stairs or even a porch can settle. In fact, of all the issues we see in foundation settlement, front stoops/stairs and porches rank in the top 3 (along with chimneys leaning and garage column settlement).
Front stoops, stairs and porches are typically built on the front of homes within the first few feet of the foundation. When a house has a basement, or has a deep crawlspace, the soils on the front of the home are disturbed during construction. When a builder pours the foundation walls, he then pushes the soil back against his new wall. In either a block or concrete poured wall, the builder has to be careful not to apply too much lateral pressure on the exterior while backfilling for fear of "blowing" the wall in or causing damage. For this reason, the soils typically are only slightly compacted. So what does this mean?
Well poorly compacted soils are a major reason for foundation settlement. In this case, the porch, stoop or stairs are placed on this soil. As the soil consolidates (compacts over time), the stoop will settle as well. In many cases, a stoop will be removed and rebuilt only to settle again as the new stoop is sitting on top of the same poorly compacted soils (or worse, the builder of the new stoop poured concrete thinking he would go deep enough to stop future settlement). This can be detrimental to your foundation and is one of those little things about a home that some people misread. If you think you need an inspection contact us today and we’ll be happy to put our A-1 method to work for you!
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